Shedding Light on  miso by John and Jan Belleme
From their latest book The Miso Book: The Art of Cooking with Miso. We have also included here an Azuki Spread recipe which is just one of the many very innovative ones that you will find in their new book.
This new book published by Square One Publishers covers different types of miso, how to make miso at home and miso's health benefits, which include lowered cholesterol and enhanced immune function. The book's bulk and climax is a buffet of tempting recipes: expected fare, like Kyoto-Style Miso Soup and Spicy soba Salad, accompany many dishes not normally associated with miso, such as French Onion Soup, Italian-Style Stuffed Shells, Caribbean Fish Chowder and Apple-Nut Muffins. You can buy it directly from us for $14.50 with free Shipping, Click Here For More Details
Miso, a fermented soy product, is one of the world's most delicious, versatile, and medicinal foods. An ancient Far Eastern staple, miso began appearing on natural food store shelves in the West in the 1970s and has since established itself as an essential ingredient in the natural food cuisine.
It's no wonder that miso is growing in popularity among health-conscious Americans. In addition to offering great flavor and versatility in recipes, miso is credited with numerous health benefits, including lowered cholesterol, chronic pain reduction, alkalinized blood, lowered blood pressure, and the reduced risk of some forms of cancer. Its daily use is also responsible for canceling the harmful effects of certain carcinogens. (See Chapter 2 of the book for more details on miso's health benefits). Furthermore, unpasteurized miso is abundant in beneficial microorganisms and enzymes that aid digestion, reduce food allergies, destroy pathogenic bacteria and toxins, and aid in food assimilation. Miso is simple to incorporate into dishes and can enhance every course from hors d'oeuvres and salads to entrees and desserts. It works well in basic macrobiotic fare as well as gourmet creations.
WHAT IS MISO?
Miso is a fermented soy food that may have originated in China around 800 BC and later spread, along with Buddhism, to the island of Japan about 500 AD. Considered a super food by some natural healers, it is usually made from cooked soybeans and cultured grains such as rice or barley.
Once the soybeans have been cleaned and cooked, they are mixed with koji (grain inoculated with Aspergillus culture), salt, and water. This mixture is then left to ferment. Gradually, the enzymes supplied by the koji along with microorganisms from the environment break down the complex structure of the beans and grains into readily digestible amino acids, fatty acids, and simple sugars. The result is a concentrated puree that adds both flavor and healthful benefits to food.
MAKING MISO
Miso is such a unique and vital food, it is important to clearly understand the factors that influence its taste, medicinal qualities, and nutritional value. By far, the most important of these influences are manufacturing methods and quality of ingredients. Basically, there are three methods of miso manufacturing. In order of decreasing quality, they are: traditionally made, naturally aged, and temperature-controlled. Although these methods differ, depending on the type of miso being made and the level of technology employed, the basic process dates back to pre-industrial Japan.
Traditionally Made
Currently, less than 5 percent of Japanese miso is traditionally made. In the relatively few shops that still use traditional methods, making miso is a way of life (see "The Miso Master's Apprentice" beginning on page 9 of the book). Each family member from grandchild to grandmother has important responsibilities each day that center around the miso-making process. The hallmark of this traditional procedure is the handmade koji, which is made in an unheated koji room. In this uniquely constructed area, the heat and humidity that are naturally generated by the fermenting grain are carefully monitored for forty-eight hours until the mature koji, covered with a fluffy, white, glistening mycelium, is sweet and loaded with powerful digestive enzymes.
Making koji this way is a labor-intensive process that requires skill, sensitivity, and stamina. In large shops that make up to 2,000 pounds of koji at once, workers spend almost all day in the koji room where the oxygen is low, the temperature is very high, and the humidity is 100 percent. One of our Japanese helpers at American Miso Company lost four pounds in one day while working in the koji room!
In pre-industrial Japan, the koji room was the domain of the miso master, and slight local variations in the process were closely guarded secrets. The few remaining Japanese miso masters believe traditional miso's characteristic heightened medicinal value and deep rich flavor result from the following:
- High-quality ingredients, such as organic grains and beans, sun-dried sea salt, and pure natural water.
- Strong koji that effectively breaks down the beans and grains.
- Slow cooking and cooling of soybeans.
- Long established strains of "wild" microorganisms that permeate the developing miso.
- Unhurried natural aging in old, seasoned wooden vats.
Whenever possible, traditionally made miso is the type to choose. It is usually sold unpas-teurized and must be kept refrigerated.
Naturally Aged
Although traditionally made miso is always "naturally aged," these two words can also refer to mass-produced miso that is fermented at natural temperatures, often in stainless steel or plastic tanks. In this type of naturally aged miso, the koji process is usually completely automated, and every effort is made to keep wild organisms out of the miso.
Soybeans are rapidly cooked and cooled, while koji is automatically made in large stainless steel rooms using warm, humid, purified air. To reduce cost and the need for experienced workers, hand labor is minimal. The quality of ingredients in this type of miso varies with market objectives. A few manufacturers make organic varieties. The finished product has a uniform taste, color, and texture, and is usually sold pasteurized in sealed plastic bags that need no refrigeration. This is the type of miso that is commonly sold in American natural foods markets.
Temperature Controlled
The lowest quality miso is the temperature-controlled commercial variety. Through a rapid, high-tech, high-temperature process, red miso can be made in only one to two months—a far cry from the one to two years it takes to ferment naturally. To insure the quality of fermentation and to accelerate the process, traditional and natural miso makers customarily use "seed" miso from a previous batch as an inoculum. Commercial miso makers, on the other hand, accelerate fermentation by adding concentrated starters that contain yeast and lactic acid bacteria before incubation. With the addition of heat and starters, sweet miso, which naturally ferments in about one to two months, can be made in just a few days! Miso that is made through a temperature-controlled process has a flat, sometimes burnt taste.
After World War II, almost all large Japanese factories converted to the temperature-controlled incubation method, which now accounts for most Japanese miso. Although this type of miso is usually sold pasteurized or with chemical preservatives, some American natural foods stores and Asian markets sell unpasteurized varieties.
TYPES Of MISO
In Japan there are as many types of miso as there are different varieties of cheese sold in the United States. Varying the kinds of grain used, the ratio of grains to beans, the salt content, and the length of fermentation all play a role in miso's diversity. However, for practical purposes, miso can be divided into two large groups based on color and taste.
Sweet miso is usually light in color (white, yellow, or beige) and high in carbohydrates. It is marketed under such names as "mellow miso," "sweet miso," and "sweet white (shiro) miso." Because it is high in koji and low in salt and soybeans, sweet miso naturally ferments in just two to eight weeks, depending on the exact recipe and the temperature during the aging process.
Miso with a higher salt content, lower koji content, and proportionally more soybeans is darker in color and saltier in taste than sweet miso. It must be fermented for a longer period of time, usually at least one summer, but as long as two to three years in extremely cold climates. This type of miso is marketed under such names as "red (aka) miso," "rice (home) miso," "brown rice (gemnai) miso," and "barley (mugi) miso." Soybean misos such as mame and hatcho are also dark, salty varieties.
Determining Quality
When considering quality, some miso advocates insist on using dark miso that has been aged for at least two years. Although there is scientific evidence that suggests dark, long-aged miso is much more effective than sweet miso in the treatment of some forms of cancer, high cholesterol, and radiation sickness, there is also evidence that sweeter, lighter miso has its own medicinal benefits. It is amazing to many Japanese people that some Americans are willing to pay more for miso that is over-aged for several years and almost black in color. In fact, miso that is aged too long, regardless of the type, deteriorates in taste, color, aroma, enzymatic activity, and nutritional value.
It is important to understand that each miso is made from its own recipe, and each recipe has a proper aging time. Light, sweet miso is not merely dark, salty miso that has fermented for less time. Red miso, in the early stages of fermentation, is light in color, but very salty and raw tasting. Sweet, light miso that is fermented for too long will turn dark and lose its fresh, sweet taste. In a few months, it will look somewhat like two-year red miso. The point here is simple: what actually determines the color, taste, and overall quality of miso is not long aging but proper aging. Proper aging is determined by the specific recipe and climate.
In the cool areas of northern Japan, natural, high-quality miso is aged for two years, while in areas like Fukuoka, which is hot and humid, it is aged for only two months. Between these two extremes are hundreds of age-old regional miso recipes. Of course, local residents all claim that their miso is the best.
While living in Japan, we were surprised to learn that what actually determines which type of miso is popular in any particular area depends just as much on the historical availability of grains and soybeans and economics as it does on local tastes. For example, in parts of Japan where rice is plentiful, rice misos are popular; in the mountainous regions where barley is grown, barley miso is the variety of choice. This is also true of soybean misos, which are popular in Japan's central region where soybeans are plentiful. The cost of grains also influences Japan's traditional taste for miso. In the less affluent, rural mountain areas, barley miso is often the only kind available. By contrast, in the wealthier urban areas around Tokyo and Kyoto, many types of rice miso, particularly sweet rice misos, dominate. In fact, even today in Japan's metropolitan areas, barley is considered a poor man's miso. Speaking very generally, dark, salty misos seem to be preferred by the more physically active rural population, while sweet, light varieties are the choice among city dwellers.
When Used in Cooking
Each type of miso has its own use in terms of both health maintenance and cooking. While dark miso is excellent for hearty winter cooking, sweet miso is great in summer soups, dips, sauces, and salad dressings. (See "Cooking Guidelines," beginning on page 39.)
In terms of health or food value, light, sweet miso is high in simple sugars and contains more lactic acid bacteria and about twice as much niacin than dark, salty varieties. Dark miso is higher in protein and, because of its greater proportion of soybeans, contains more saponin, lecithin, fatty acids, and isoflavones—all of which have important health benefits.
It is not always possible to determine the type of miso you are choosing from the name printed on the label. For example, although names such as "brown rice miso" and "barley miso" usually refer to products that are fermented for a year or more, this is not always the case. However, information on the label can help you determine if the miso is long-aged. FDA regulations require that manufacturers list the ingredients on their labels in descending order by weight. When shopping for long-aged miso, check the ingredients. If soybeans appear on the ingredient list before rice or barley, you can be sure you are buying long-aged miso.
However, do not let your concern with miso's medicinal properties eclipse your culinary enjoyment of this truly delicious food. When choosing miso, look for organic, traditionally made, unpasteurized miso, and then let your personal needs and taste be your guide.
PRESERVING MISO
As a method of preserving miso, freeze-drying is ideal. Under the right conditions, water molecules in foods can change directly into a gas without first passing through a liquid phase. This dehydration process, called sublimation, involves freezing food under a vacuum, which allows the water to vaporize at a very low temperature. Freeze-dried miso retains an excellent flavor profile, because very little of the fresh taste is lost during this process. Moreover, this type of drying removes water molecules from bioactive compounds without destroying their chemical integrity. Theoretically, along with the microorganisms, most of the medicinal components of miso, such as essential fatty acids, melanoidins, saponins, isoflavones, and lecithin, are also preserved.
Because astronauts eat freeze-dried foods during space travel, freeze-dried miso, which is available in instant soups and ramen broths, is often marketed as a "space-age food." Interestingly, although we may consider freeze-drying as "space age," the Japanese have been making snow-Dried Tofu for hundreds of years. Freeze-dried foods were also a staple of the Peruvian Incas, who preserved vegetables using this technique high in the Andes. However, ancient freeze-drying is a much better way of preserving miso and other fermented foods than simple heat dehydration, which works fine for fruits and vegetables, but greatly reduces the quality of delicate fermented foods. When shopping for dehydrated miso products, look for the words "freeze-dried" on the package.
THE POPULARITY GROWS
Miso's popularity in the West continues to increase as more and more people discover its extraordinary health benefits and culinary possibilities. In addition to finding miso on store shelves, expect to see this vital soy food added to many prepared commercial foods, such as salad dressings, dips and spreads, as well as instant foods that include freeze-dried miso.
Azuki Spread Recipe
Azuki beans have long been highly regarded in Japan for their rich nutritional and strengthening qualities. They are a good source of vitamins, minerals, and protein, and they are easier to digest than most beans. Although soaking reduces their cooking time, it isn't necessary. In addition to being a delicious spread for sandwiches and crackers, this recipe makes a wonderful mild filling for Mexican favorites like tacos and burritos.
Yield: About 2 1/2 cups
1 cup dried azuki beans
3 cups water
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon shoyu or tamari
2 teaspoons red, brown rice, or barley miso
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons minced parsley
1. Rinse the beans with cold water, drain, and place in 3 quart pot. Add the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for l 1/2 hours, or until the azukis are tender. Add more water if needed.
2. Stir in the salt, and simmer uncovered 15 to 20 minutes more. Drain the beans, reserving any cooking liquid, and set aside.
3. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté 3 to 5 minutes, or until soft and thoroughly cooked, but not browned.
4. Add the drained beans and sauté another 2 to 3 minutes, then stir in the shoyu and 1/3 cup of the reserved broth. While stirring, partially mash the beans.
5. Combine the miso and lemon juice, and add it to the bean mixture. If the spread is too dry, add a little more broth. Add the parsley and cook another minute.
6. Use immediately or allow to cool to room temperature. Refrigerated in a covered container, the spread will keep for about five days.
Variation
For a spicier taste, add 1 to 2 teaspoons of cumin to the sautéing onions and garlic.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
John and Jan Belleme are the country's leading authorities on the subject of miso and other traditional Japanese foods. After living in Japan, where they learned the craft of miso-making Firsthand, ihe Bellemes have researched the culinary and medicinal qualities of miso and other Japanese foods for decades. In 1979, they co-founded the American Miso Company, one of the world's largest producers of traditional miso. They have written four books and over one hundred articles on Japanese foods. Currently, the Bellemes are involved with A Taste of Health, a nonprofit organization that promotes the use of natural foods through education which In 2005 will be offering a 7 day Holistic Cruise to the Caribbean. The Bellemes presently live in Saluda, North Carolina, with their two sons, Justin and Michael.
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a few times and I love it.